Monstera multiplies from stem pieces that include a node. Large, woody stems are also good candidates for air layering before you cut them free.
Materials
- Clean pruners
- Stem with at least one node (aerial root is a bonus)
- Jar of water or pot with airy mix
- For thick stems still on the plant: sphagnum and wrap materials for air layering
Steps
- Identify a node—the swollen joint where a leaf and aerial root can emerge.
- Cut 1–2 inches below the node so the cutting includes that joint.
- Optional: trim a very large leaf to reduce water loss while roots form.
- Place the node in water or insert it into moist, well-aerated mix. Keep leaves out of the water.
- Give bright, indirect light and stable room temperatures.
- Refresh water about 1–2 times per week if rooting in a jar.
- Pot when roots are established (about an inch is a practical water-root target for many aroids).
- For tall stems you do not want to risk: use air layering until roots show in the wrap, then sever and pot.
Common Mistakes
- Taking a “wet stick” with no node.
- Submerging leaves until they rot.
- Cutting a thick cane free before roots exist (air layer first instead).
- Low light that stalls rooting for months.
- Overpotting a tiny rooted cutting into a huge container.
People Also Ask
Can I propagate monstera from a leaf only?
No. Without a node, a leaf will not grow a new climbing stem.
Should I use water or soil?
Both work for node cuttings. Water makes roots easy to see; soil skips the water-to-soil transition. Air layering is better for thick attached stems—see air layering.
What about aerial roots?
Useful but not mandatory. A node is the requirement; an aerial root is a head start.
Is monstera toxic?
Like many aroids, monstera contains calcium oxalates. Discourage chewing by pets and kids.
When do I cut an air layer free?
When you see a clear root mass in the moss wrap. Full steps live on the air layering method page.