How to propagate lipstick plant

Lipstick plant is Aeschynanthus radicans, also sold as lipstick vine or basket vine. It is a tropical, evergreen, epiphytic perennial in the gloxinia family, Gesneriaceae, native to Thailand, the Malaysian peninsula, Sumatra, and Borneo, according to NCSU Extension. The RHS gives its range as Thailand to Malesia. The buds resemble tubes of lipstick, which gives the plant its common name, and the red tubular flowers open from burgundy calyces. The genus name comes from two Greek words, aischyne, meaning “shame,” and anthos, meaning flower, perhaps a reference to the blushing red flowers. The species name radicans is Latin for “rooting.” NCSU lists several cultivars, including ‘Curly’ with curled, twisted leaves, ‘Mona Lisa’ with orange-red flowers, ‘Rasta’ with densely curled leaves, ‘Tangerine’ with orange-yellow flowers, and ‘Variegata’ with leaves variegated in white, cream, and yellow.

The common name also turns up on other species. University of Florida IFAS Extension in St. Johns County lists Lipstick Plant as Aeschynanthus humilis among houseplants considered non-poisonous to pets. The steps below follow NCSU, the RHS, and Ask Extension, which all name A. radicans, so the botanical name on the label is worth checking.

Lipstick plant is an easy plant to propagate and share, according to NCSU, and the method is a three-node soft stem cutting. Drained-mix technique for any houseplant is on soil propagation, jar routines are on water propagation, and the main methods across houseplants are compared on plant propagation. Goldfish plant, another trailing member of the Gesneriaceae, has its own steps on how to propagate goldfish plant.

Best way indoors

A soft stem cutting in moist rooting media is the standard method. NCSU lists stem cutting as the Recommended Propagation Strategy and gives a three-node soft stem recipe. An Ask Extension expert in King County, Washington names stem cuttings in spring as the most common method for A. radicans. The RHS splits the timing: softwood cuttings in spring, or semi-ripe cuttings in summer.

Root timing is given two ways. NCSU: roots should appear in two weeks on the vermiculite and perlite recipe. Ask Extension checks by pulling gently on the cutting, and resistance means roots have formed. No day count comes with that test.

The cutting is measured two ways as well. NCSU counts three nodes. Ask Extension counts sets of leaves and cuts below the fourth.

When to take cuttings

Spring is the season most sources agree on. The RHS gives spring for softwood cuttings and summer for semi-ripe cuttings, and the Ask Extension expert names spring stem cuttings as the most common method. NCSU’s soft stem method doesn’t name a season.

The plant flowers over a long stretch. NCSU lists bloom time as spring, summer, and fall, with terminal flower clusters, and the RHS describes clusters of flared red flowers up to 5 cm long appearing intermittently from spring to autumn.

Materials

• A healthy lipstick plant with soft stems
• Clean, sharp scissors or a knife
• Rooting hormone
• A small container
• Moist rooting media: equal parts vermiculite and perlite (NCSU), or half pre-moistened coir and half vermiculite or perlite (Ask Extension)
• A clear plastic bag and a twist tie (Ask Extension)
• A spray bottle for misting the mix (Ask Extension)
• A warm spot with indirect light, out of direct sun
• Bottom heat, optional (Ask Extension)

Soft stem cuttings

NCSU’s recipe is short. Take a three-node soft stem cutting, remove all but the uppermost 2 to 4 leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, pot the cutting in equal parts vermiculite and perlite, and keep it moist. Roots should appear in two weeks.

NCSU steps

1. Take a soft stem cutting with three nodes.
2. Remove all but the uppermost 2 to 4 leaves.
3. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
4. Pot the cutting in a mixture of equal parts vermiculite and perlite.
5. Keep the mix moist.
6. Look for roots in about two weeks.

Ask Extension steps

The King County expert identified the plant in the question as A. radicans and called spring stem cuttings the most common method.

1. Cut a stem below the fourth set of leaves.
2. Remove the lower two sets of leaves and leave the upper two.
3. Dip the cut end in rooting hormone.
4. Set the bare part of the stem in a small container of half pre-moistened coir and half vermiculite or perlite.
5. Mist the mix well.
6. Place the container in a plastic bag and seal the top with a twist tie.
7. Put it in a warm spot with indirect light. Bottom heat helps.
8. Keep it out of direct sun, which will cook the cutting.
9. When the mix is dry, mist it well and return the container to the bag. Do not overwater.
10. If condensation forms, poke a few holes in the bag so rot does not kill the cutting.
11. Pull gently on the cutting. Resistance means roots have formed, and the cutting can move to a small pot.

The two recipes share a rooting hormone dip and a moist, light mix. They differ in how the cutting is measured, in the medium, and in the cover. NCSU’s recipe does not mention a bag. Ask Extension encloses the container and vents it when condensation forms.

Finding nodes on a stem before cutting is covered in what is a node on a plant.

Semi-ripe cuttings

The RHS profile for A. radicans gives two seasons: softwood cuttings in spring, or semi-ripe cuttings in summer. It doesn’t give a cutting length or rooting temperature for either one.

The RHS profile for Aeschynanthus ‘Japhrolepis’, a cultivar in the same genus, adds figures. Softwood cuttings are young stems 3 to 5 cm long (about 1 to 2 inches) taken in spring, or semi-ripe cuttings are taken in summer, and both root in gritty compost at 15 to 19°C (59 to 66°F). Those numbers belong to ‘Japhrolepis’. The radicans profile does not repeat them.

NCSU and Ask Extension describe only soft stem and spring stem cuttings, with no separate semi-ripe steps.

Light while propagating

NCSU: lipstick plant needs bright indirect light, but not full sun. Ask Extension roots the bagged cutting in a warm spot with indirect light, and direct sun will cook it.

Warmth matters for the growing plant. NCSU: lipstick plant likes warmth and does best when soil temperatures stay between 65 and 70°F during the growing season. In winter it can be kept a bit cooler and drier. If the temperature falls below 50°F, leaf drop will occur.

The RHS lists partial shade, an east-facing or west-facing aspect, and a sheltered spot for this plant, and rates it H1A: under glass all year, above 15°C (59°F), in UK conditions.

Humidity needs air movement. NCSU: lipstick plant enjoys high humidity but with air circulation, because stagnant moist air encourages fungal disease. The Ask Extension bag raises humidity around the cutting, and holes in the bag let condensation escape.

A dim window is easier to judge with numbers. The propagation light DLI calculator estimates daily light at the cutting, and fixture options are compared in best grow lights for indoor propagation.

Care after potting

RHS: grow lipstick plant as a house or conservatory plant in a peat-free houseplant compost, with the container in bright, filtered light for best growth and flowering. Water freely and apply a half-strength general liquid feed monthly from mid spring to late summer. Water sparingly in winter.

NCSU: water often, but make sure the potting soil has good drainage. A dilute liquid fertilizer, such as one made for orchids, during the growing season encourages leaf growth and blooming. Fungal problems can be avoided by keeping leaves dry and out of contact with the potting medium.

The RHS also suggests trimming back weak or overly long shoots as needed, and grows the plant in a hanging basket. NCSU describes an arching, cascading epiphyte with a medium growth rate, suited to soil high in organic matter with good drainage. A young plant takes a while to fill out, and the RHS gives 2 to 5 years to reach maturity.

Troubleshooting

The cutting turns soft under the bag. Ask Extension pokes a few holes in the bag when condensation forms, because trapped moisture can rot the cutting. NCSU also notes that stagnant moist air encourages fungal disease.

Leaves scorch or the cutting looks cooked. Direct sun will cook a bagged cutting, according to Ask Extension, and NCSU gives bright indirect light, not full sun. Move the pot out of direct sun.

No roots after one week. NCSU gives two weeks for roots in vermiculite and perlite. A firm cutting is still inside that range.

The cutting still pulls loose. Resistance to a gentle pull is the Ask Extension sign of roots, and it comes with no set number of days. Keep the cutting warm, in indirect light, and mist the mix when it dries.

Leaves drop in a cool room. NCSU: if the temperature falls below 50°F, leaf drop will occur. Move the plant somewhere warmer.

Spots appear on the leaves. NCSU lists botrytis blight and leaf spot as diseases that can occur, and keeps fungal problems away by keeping leaves dry and out of contact with the potting medium. The RHS calls the plant generally disease-free.

Small insects cluster on the stems or leaves. NCSU lists aphids, mealybugs, and mites as insects that affect lipstick plant. The RHS notes it may be susceptible to aphids and mealybugs.

Common mistakes

• Leaving more than the uppermost 2 to 4 leaves on an NCSU cutting (NCSU).
• Burying leaves along with the stem. Ask Extension removes the lower two sets of leaves and sets only the bare stem in the mix.
• Skipping the rooting hormone dip that both recipes use (NCSU, Ask Extension).
• Letting the vermiculite and perlite mix dry out (NCSU keeps it moist).
• Overwatering a bagged coir mix instead of misting when it is dry (Ask Extension).
• Potting into soil without good drainage (NCSU).
• Watering freely through winter (RHS: water sparingly in winter).
• Feeding at full strength or outside the growing season (RHS: half strength, monthly, mid spring to late summer).

People also ask

What is the botanical name for lipstick plant?

NCSU and the RHS both use Aeschynanthus radicans, in the family Gesneriaceae. NCSU lists the common names basket vine, lipstick plant, and lipstick vine. University of Florida IFAS Extension in St. Johns County uses Lipstick Plant for Aeschynanthus humilis on a list of houseplants considered non-poisonous to pets.

How do you propagate a lipstick plant from cuttings?

Take a three-node soft stem, keep the uppermost 2 to 4 leaves, dip the cut end in rooting hormone, and pot it in moist equal parts vermiculite and perlite (NCSU). Ask Extension cuts below the fourth set of leaves and roots the stem in a coir mix inside a plastic bag.

How long do lipstick plant cuttings take to root?

Roots should appear in two weeks on NCSU’s vermiculite and perlite recipe. Ask Extension waits until a gentle pull meets resistance.

Do softwood and semi-ripe cuttings both work?

Yes, according to the RHS: softwood cuttings in spring, or semi-ripe cuttings in summer. The RHS profile for the cultivar ‘Japhrolepis’ adds softwood stems 3 to 5 cm long and gritty compost at 15 to 19°C.

When is the best time to take lipstick plant cuttings?

Spring, for softwood cuttings, according to the RHS, and summer for semi-ripe cuttings. The Ask Extension expert also names spring as the usual season for stem cuttings. NCSU’s soft stem recipe does not tie the cutting to a season.

Does lipstick plant need rooting hormone?

Both stem recipes, from NCSU and Ask Extension, dip the cut end in rooting hormone. Neither describes rooting without it.

Can lipstick plant root in water?

Water rooting has no extension-backed steps or timeline for A. radicans. NCSU, the RHS, and Ask Extension all root the stem in moist media.

Keep reading

• What is a node on a plant
• Rooting hormone
• Soil propagation
• Water propagation
• Plant propagation
• How to propagate goldfish plant
• Propagation light DLI calculator
• Best grow lights for indoor propagation